Día DE LOS MUERTOS
October 31– November 2
By Anamaria Gil (and with a lovely contribution by Leslie Birnbaum)
My family and I have been to Mexico several times to visit cities and small towns which celebrate Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead). To some North Americans, El Día de los Muertos sounds macabre. On the contrary, Día de los Muertos celebrates the circle of life, family, ancestry and tradition. It is a fusion of Christian and pre-hispanic traditions, which commemorates the transitory return to earth of deceased relatives and loved ones. During this special time, souls are said to return to earth to enjoy the pleasures that they once had in life. Day of the Dead celebrations provide an opportunity for remembrance and solemnity, and also, for a bit of irreverence and fun.
The Day of the Dead has gained recognition and popularity in the U.S. over the last few years. Recall the 2017 Disney animated movie “Coco”, where a little boy is transported to the Land of the Dead. In this Land of the Dead, the deceased are only permitted to visit the Land of the Living if they are still remembered. This movie was widely celebrated in the U.S. and Mexico. It was Disney’s first movie with an all Latino principle cast, and won two Academy awards.
Also, don’t forget the opening scene of the 2015 James Bond film, “Spectre”, where Daniel Craig strolls through a Día de los Muertos parade in Mexico City wearing a skeleton costume, complete with skull mask and top hat. (Ironically, Mexico City did not have a Día de los Muertos parade until after that movie was filmed.)
This year, even Mattel got into the fray and launched a Day of the Dead Barbie (for $75).
History & Observance
El Día de Los Muertos originated in Mexico, before the Spanish conquest, possibly as much as 3,000 years ago. The original Aztec festival was held in July. It was believed to have been presided over by the Aztec goddess Mictecacihuatl, or Lady of the Dead. Following the Spanish conquest of Mexico during the 16th century, there was a strong effort to convert the indigenous population to Catholicism. Ultimately, however, the indigenous population was disinclined to give up old customs, and a compromise of sorts was reached where old customs were blended with the new religion. All Saints’ Day and All Hallows Eve (Halloween) roughly coincided with the preexisting Día de Los Muertos, resulting in the present day event which draws from both traditions.
Día de Los Muertos is observed at home and also in the public square. Families create altars in their homes to honor their loved ones. These alters can be quite elaborate with marigolds, food, alcohol, bread, candles, incense and sugar skulls in an effort to help guide and welcome the souls of the deceased for their brief visit home. Families also visit and decorate grave sites of loved ones. In some places, the entire town will be at the cemetery at midnight decorating grave sites, visiting, and telling stories. These events can feel like street fairs with vendors selling food, drink and decorations, mariachis playing, and plenty of beer and tequila. Strange as it sounds, it is very special.
One of the traditions for Día de los Muertos is to make “tapetes”, the Spanish word for “rug”. Tapetes are large, colorful pieces of art made on the ground. They are made of colored sand, sawdust, or other organic material.
The Spanish brought this tradition to the Americas during conquest and colonialization. Tapetes can depict religious imagery, or playful images of death and skeletons.
Skulls are a popular symbol that make their appearance at Day of the Dead celebrations. Sugar skulls are a tradition and are made with granulated and powdered sugar, meringue powder, food coloring and water. They are often decorated with icing, sequins, feathers, beads, glitter and colored tin foil. Want to take a bite? Some are edible, but many are decorative. Sugar skulls are not typically for eating and are viewed as folk art.
Sugar skull making dates back to the 1630s. Want to create one? They take time. Sugar skull makers start four to six months in advance to accumulate enough sugar for the season. The process involves boiling a granulated white sugar mixture, getting the mixture to the right temperature to get a translucent (bone-like) color, pouring/pressing it into a mold, and decorating it. A sugar skull can last for five years. Fantástico!
Día de los Muertos is not celebrated everywhere in Mexico. It is best known in the southern part of Mexico, and in areas with larger indigenous populations. Some of the best places to attend this ancient and wondrous festival is in Oaxaca, Patzcuaro, Guadalajara and Chiapas.